Where to purchase human hair

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Such accounts give an impression of abundance, suggesting that hair could be gathered like any other crop at the appropriate season. It takes a year to cultivate a yield of four-and-a-half to six inches — a length inadequate for making wigs and hair extensions. A decent crop requires a minimum of two years to grow, and really valuable lengths of 20 inches and above require at least four years. Long hair demands patience from both growers and collectors.

In response, 19th-century hair peddlers would often offer women advance payments for hair to be collected three or four years later. But once peasant girls in Europe started travelling to towns and cities, finding employment as housemaids or in other jobs, they became attracted to bourgeois fashions and started wanting to wear hats that required loose hair. Some resolved the issue by selling or bartering only a small section of hair, cut from the under-portion at the back of the head.

That way they could satisfy both themselves and their husbands that they had retained long hair while at the same time gaining access to fancy trinkets that were offered in exchange. Hair supplies were further boosted by collecting combings, made up of fallen hair salvaged from brushes or from the gutter.

Balls of comb waste continue to be collected door-to-door in India, China, Bangladesh and Myanmar today in exchange for tiny amounts of money or petty goods. At the same time that French peasants were abandoning their bonnets at the turn of the century, elite women were adopting more and more grandiose hairstyles and hats, all of which required more added hair.

But where was all this hair to be procured? Institutional sources in Europe furnished some of the requirements. In Britain, the custom of removing the hair of inmates in prisons, workhouses and hospitals was useful to the hair trade while it lasted, but by the s the practice was no longer compulsory. Convents were a more reliable source, especially in Catholic countries such as France, Spain and Italy, where hair was ceremoniously clipped from the heads of novices as part of the ritual of renouncing the world and dedicating themselves to Christ.

Today Hindu temples in South India offer an important source of long hair that has been shaved directly from the heads of devotees in fulfillment of religious vows. Every day, one or two women visit to have their hair valued, cut off, and restyled. Some are bored with long hair, others need the money, and a few are raising money for charity. The rest are for hair extensions, which is what my locks could become.

It feels faintly embarrassing to be discussing the monetary value of something as personal as my hair. But perhaps I shouldn't have been surprised at myself; women's hair has always been a contentious issue. From orthodox Jews, Muslims, and nuns covering it for modesty, to a badge of femininity and beauty in fairytales such as Rapunzel, hair has always exerted a powerful metaphorical pull.

Even in today's more secular world it acts as a lightning rod for our attitudes to women: something US gymnast Gabby Douglas discovered when her gold medal win at the Olympics was overshadowed by a row over whether her messy ponytail reflected badly on the black community. Miley Cyrus's decision to cut her hair short in the summer was taken as a sign that another teen pop star's life was spiralling out of control , much like Britney Spears in Today, hair is more than just a symbol: it is big business.

From India to Peru, the human hair trade has spread across the globe, and it has the UK in its grasp. And according to Dawn Riley from Balmain Hair , which sells extensions to thousands of salons and hundreds of wholesalers, this is only the beginning.

We are now seeing the growth that colour [hair dye] saw 30 years ago. A stylist is finishing off a head of dramatic, tumbling curls for Bianca Gascoigne, a glamour model and reality TV contestant. With her thick, false lashes emphasising her wide-set eyes, the cascade of hair makes her look like a Disney drawing. Laughing, she agrees she likes to look like "a princess": "Hair extensions make you feel glamorous," she says, explaining she first started wearing clip-in fake hair as a teenager, keen to copy celebrities such as Christina Aguilera.

Now, she says, everyone she knows has them. I watch as a woman in her 40s with long, streaked, blond hair has some extensions that have fallen out refitted. Thin strands of hair topped by a "polymer" — a covered metal ring — are wrapped around tiny clumps of her hair in neat rows, a centimetre or so from her scalp. It's fiddly work, and it's fascinating to watch the stylist gently heat the bond so it stays put. Doesn't it weigh her hair down? No, she insists, "you can't feel them, you don't even know it's there.